Why vet care doesn’t need to break the bank…

A Look at Parasite Preventative Costs

We know that vet care costs can add up quickly, which can surprise pet owners who aren’t expecting it. Just like your pets food or vaccines, we like to think of parasite prevention as part of your normal planned “monthly pet budget”. While parasite prevention is essential to happy, healthy pets – it doesn’t necessarily have to break the bank. VetBox is on a mission to provide safe, effective, and cost conscious parasite prevention to as many pets as possible.

Our baseline subscription includes a monthly pipette of flea/tick spot on treatment, and a dose of oral wormer every three months.

For most pets, this combination provides good broad spectrum parasite coverage that is safe and effective. It also follows the current standard adult parasite preventative recommendations from the British Small Animal Veterinary Association (BSAVA) and the European Scientific Council for Companion Animal Parasites (ESCCAP).

For cats and small dogs, our subscription cost is just £7.49 per month. This includes the monthly spot on flea/tick treatment, monthly treats to reward your furry family member for getting their treatment, shipping costs straight to your door, and an oral worming tablet every 3 months. We looked into some other subscription companies/online vet pharmacies and found that the same service cost anywhere from £10.50 up to £14.49 per month. Using VetBox means our customers are saving 40 – 55% every month.

These cost differences are similar as pet size therefore monthly cost increases, and in some cases showed even larger gaps between VetBox prices and other companies. Our XL dog subscription (dogs weighing 40-60kg) is still just £9.49 per month.

We know that our standard subscription might not work for everyone. Some pets need monthly wormer due to higher exposure level/risk level, some pets need lungworm coverage, and some pets might need a change in how their treatments are given (think about your kitties that hate tablets). Our other options for parasite preventatives have also been shown to be consistently more cost effective as well, or at the very least equivalent to other companies or your vets office. That being said, ours also includes shipment straight to your door each month, making it easier for you and your pet!

There’s lots of options for parasite preventatives out there. It’s easy to get overwhelmed! Trust us, we’re all pet owners too and have gone through the struggles of picking the right preventatives for our own critters. If you’re looking for a way to appropriately protect your pet, be supported by a small dedicated animal loving staff, AND do it in an easy cost effective way – VetBox is your answer.

Click her e to start your VetBox journey today

Lungworm

It’s no secret there’s a new kid in town, and that’s Angiostrongylus vasorum, better known as lungworm. This parasite can be dangerous and potentially fatal to your pet, so let’s take a quick look at what pet owners should know about lungworm.

The lowdown on lungworm:

Lungworm is a parasite that is found in both dogs and cats. They are species-specific. This means that dog lungworms (Angiostrongylus vasorum) infect dogs and cat lungworms (Aelurostrongylus abstrusus) infect cats. These worms are not spread directly pet to pet, but instead through intermediate hosts. Just think of the intermediate host as the middle man. The intermediate host needed for completing the lungworm life cycle is a slug or snail. Your pet may consume a slug/snail (or even just their slime), swallows the lungworm larvae into the intestinal tract, where they develop and migrate through the body. The end target location are the blood vessels in the lungs (+/- heart). Here adults develop and make more larvae, which are coughed up, swallowed, and returned to the gut to come out in the stools. New slugs/snails consume larvae and the cycle starts again. It has been documented that foxes are becoming a major carrier/spreader of lungworm. Foxes become infected the same way dogs do, and then larvae are passed in the faeces to infect more slugs/snails that then can be consumed by our pets.

Pets at higher risk are those that spend a lot of time outside and like to explore. These pets are more likely to come into contact with slug/snail slime or to consume them directly. It can even be as simple as drinking water or chewing on plants that have small slugs or slime in them! Another common culprit are toys or bowls that live outside and have touched an infected slug or snail. Cases of lungworm in the UK have been documented in higher numbers in the south, though it is anticipated cases in northern England, Scotland and Ireland will continue to rise.

Check for signs:

Signs your pet is infected with lungworm can be variable. It may be as general as weight loss, vomiting, and decreased appetite. This can progress to coughing and even bleeding abnormalities. Your vet can do a few tests to diagnose lungworm. These include a special faecal test called a Baerman funnel, a blood test called an ELISA, x-rays of the lungs looking for damage, as well as a scope of the airways to collect a sample looking for larvae. Treatment is variable depending on how severely your pet is affected. Hospitalisation is needed in some cases, and as mentioned occasional cases can be fatal.

One of my mantras when it comes to medicine is, PREVENTION is key. Prevention is always better than treatment in lungworm cases. What many pet owners don’t realise is that there is not one wormer that treats all types of worms. This is why it is essential you discuss your pets specific needs/risks with a vet to determine the best parasite preventative for them. Many products out on the market that owners know as “wormer” will treat the most common types such as roundworm or hookworms, but not tapeworms or lungworms.

Tops tips to prevent lungworm in your furry friends…

Assess your pet’s risk with a vet. VetBox subscribers have free access to vet support.
Monitor your pets when outside (try your best to prevent them eating slugs and snails).
Pick up your pets poo and clean outside toys/bowls.
Be on the lookout for foxes in your area (primarily their faeces in your garden).

Get in touch with the VetBox vet team to discuss your pet’s specific risks.

For up to date expertise on small animal parasites, visit the European Scientific Council on Companion Animal Parasites website at:

https://www.esccap.org/national-associations/UK+and+Ireland/11/

Why getting a microchip for your pet is best:

In today’s world it’s easy to find lots of fun and creative ways to ensure the world knows they’re yours. Personalised tags with names, phrases, and owner contact information are available far and wide. Collars in colours and patterns range from rainbow to fine leather. While these are encouraged for recognition in case you find yourself separated from your pet, what’s important to remember is the most reliable way to link your pet to you is a MICROCHIP! Here’s why choosing the chip is best:

It won’t get lost:

Once a microchip is inserted, it’s in there for good. Microchips are made to be inserted under the skin using a needle on an application device. The skin heals over the small hole and the microchip remains in the subcutaneous tissue for the life of the animals. These won’t fall off like a collar, and can’t be easily removed.

It’s easy and cost effective:

Microchipping your pets is quick and can be done at the vets in just a few minutes. Registering the chip with your name and contact information is just as simple, and can be done in under five minutes online. Once registered with the company who makes the chip, you can log on and change your information. This is especially useful if you move house or get a new phone number. Microchip accounts also allow you to put in the contact information of your vet! The process is also cost effective. Many chip application and registration fees can be as little as £15, and only have to be paid once during the life of the animal.

It’s reliable:

All vets and rescues/shelters have a microchip reader that allows them to scan pets that come in for a chip. If your pet gets lost, runs away, or is stolen and is brought to a vet or rescue, the first thing they will do is check for a chip. This then allows for them to contact the microchip company, and in turn for the company to contact you! What’s just as essential is ensuring that the contact information registered on the microchip is up to date. There are many occasions when rescue staff are unable to return a pet to its owner because the contact information on the chip is old or inaccurate. Having your pet microchipped and with up to date information is essential to getting your pet returned to you safely.

It’s the internationally recognised method of animal identification:

Ever wanted to travel out of the country with your pet? Then they will absolutely need to have an active, readable 15 digit microchip in them for identification purposes. These are required, and if not able to be read, your pet may be refused entry or kept in quarantine at your travel destination. This may also apply if your microchip isn’t upto date.

For these reasons, we strongly encourage people to microchip their pets. It’s a safe, quick, and reliable way to ensure you have the best chance of finding your pet if they ever were to be separated from you or if you ever plan to travel outside the country with them. Be sure to choose the chip!

Ready to take the stress out of pet healthcare? Start your journey here

Caring for senior pets

Age is just a number, right? With all the advances in veterinary care over the years our pets are living longer healthier lives. That being said, it’s key pet owners are aware that the needs of your pet WILL change with age. Just because your pets are aging however, doesn’t mean they still can’t have a fantastic quality of life. Today’s blog is going to focus on important considerations for senior pet parents to help keep our golden oldies happy!

Regular vet visits are a must.

Pets are great at hiding problems, especially cats. While annual vet visits are important for pets of all ages, senior pets benefit from being seen more frequently. An exam with your vet every 6 months with your vet may be more appropriate for your senior pet. This allows for a good once over and potentially blood/urine testing to check organ function.

Dietary needs change as pets age.

Senior pets tend to require nutrients in different quantities than young and adult pets. Check that the food you are feeding is labelled for “senior” life stages or “mature adult”. Some products may also say best over a certain age like “7+”. There are even great diets out there that can support brain health in senior pets, particularly those with cognitive changes (see below).

Weight management has always been key to good health, but it’s crucial for senior pets.

Maintaining a healthy weight is essential for pets of all ages, but in our senior pets it’s even more crucial we avoid excess weight. Any weight above your pets “ideal” body condition not only exponentially increases their risks for developing diseases like diabetes or cardiac problems, but also skyrockets the amount of pain and inflammation in their joints. Senior pets are much more likely to suffer from arthritis and chronic pain, with overweight pets experiencing discomfort at a higher level.

Routine is our friend.

Senior pets are often more easily stressed by change. New places, people, and schedules are a common source of anxiety. Sticking as best as you can to a daily routine helps decrease anxiety. This can include waking up/going to bed at similar times, feeding at the same time in the same place, and engaging in activity at the same times.

Decline in mobility and chronic pain are a common obstacle.

Like we mentioned in the weight section, arthritis is an issue in many senior pets. This contributes to a decline in mobility and difficult performing tasks that used to be easy or normal. Even changes as simple as sleeping more, being slower to get up or lay down, or not following you around the house may indicate pain.

We need to consider joint support much more seriously as patients age, which may mean interventions such as joint support diets, supplements, pain control, weight control, etc. This may also mean changing your home, such as laying down carpets on slippery floors, blocking off stairs, making a ramp/small stairs to get on beds/couches, and ensuring easy access to food/water/litter boxes.

TIP: Consider low walled non covered litter boxes on each level of your home for senior kitties! They’re much more likely to use them if they are easy to get TO and get IN.

Is your pet ignoring you? It might be a decline in their hearing or vision.

While I firmly believe my older golden retriever has “selective hearing” (i.e. ignores me when I call him to come inside, but comes running to the kitchen if I open a bag of cheese), your pet ignoring you may actually be a sign that they are losing their hearing or vision. Making adjustments to how we signal our pets can help them adjust to these changes.

For pets losing hearing, start training for visual cues for sit/stay/come.
For pets losing vision, consider soft verbal cues with an associated touch for commands.
Avoid moving furniture if you can for pets with vision loss, as they often memorize the location of things within the home and associate them in relation to surrounding objects and smell.

Changes in behaviour might be more than just “getting old”….it could be cognitive dysfunction.

Some changes in behavior with age are inevitable, but disorientation, confusion, anxiety, and changes in sleeping patterns may indicate a bigger problem. Check out our blog on canine cognitive dysfunction for more detailed information about this neurobehavioral disorder, and the importance of discussing it with your vet.

Regular, short, low impact activity is encouraged!

Older pets may have the inclination to not participate in activity as whole heartedly as they used to. This may simply be due to normal changes like increased sleep needs and lower energy level, but also can be related to chronic pain. Keeping our senior pets moving in a safe and low impact manner is strongly encouraged. This helps promote a healthy weight, happy joints, and provides mental stimulation. Short walks are an easy free way to keep your pet moving, but also things like hydrotherapy (water therapy) or chiropractic work with a vet can make a major difference in comfort level.

Vaccinations and parasite prevention are STILL important.

Just because your pet is older, doesn’t mean they aren’t targets of infectious disease and parasites. Their risk level for certain types of these may differ based on lifestyle, however age alone does not prohibit pets from picking up things like viruses or worms. Vets regularly see adult and senior dogs positive for intestinal parasites that are not receiving regular preventatives. Senior pets still require protection, and the needs of your pet should be discussed with your vet.

Love them a little (or a lot) extra.

Even though our senior pets might not be quite as active or rambunctious as they used to be, they’re still our babies. They still rely on us to provide for them, and cherish our days together more so than ever. I encourage people to remember to give their senior pet a little extra love every day, and remember how many wonderful times you’ve shared!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Puppies: Neutering

There are fewer things that bring more smiles to the vet clinic than an owner bringing in their new wiggly, happy puppy. It’s an exciting time for families to be adding a new addition, but it can also be overwhelming too! We wish we had an hour to sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important puppy topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this having resources for owners to read/keep has become a must. We’ve included top tips and considerations on puppy neutering here for new puppy owners!

There has been a lot of discussion about when you/should you have your pet neutered. The general consensus among the vet community is that neutering your pet is strongly encouraged for several reasons. This should always be a conversation between you and your vet.

TERMS: NEUTERING refers to the removal of gonads/reproductive organs. CASTRATION is the term used for males and OVARIOHYSTERECTOMY or SPAY is the term for females.

Why should you have your puppy neutered?

For male dogs, much of the interest in castration is to decrease behaviours that are related to the hormone testosterone. This includes aggression, territorial tendencies, sexual tendencies, and lifting their leg to urinate/urine marking. While these behaviors can continue AFTER castration, they are typically less likely to occur. Secondly, there are medical concerns. Intact male dogs are at increased risk for testosterone induced testicular cancers, prostatic abscesses/inflammation/cysts, and other types of testicular tumours. There remains the risk of unplanned parenthood, which despite many well intentioned owners often happens by accident when the dog is unsupervised. I can promise you that intact male and female dogs rarely care about the opposing breed, size of the dog, or any family relation – given the opportunity, breeding can occur.

There is a bit more “urgency” when it comes to spaying female dogs. While there is also a behavioural component, the risks here more so reflect medical concerns. Intact female dogs will have heat cycles consistently during their life and tend to behave more excitably during this time. This means that they will bleed 1-2 times annually as long as female hormones are still being created by the ovaries. Medically speaking, vets’ primary concerns are going to be increased risk of malignant mammary cancer and potential to develop a life threatening bacterial infection of the uterus called a pyometra. For every heat cycle a dog goes through, the risk of developing aggressive mammary cancer later in life increases. One heat cycle does not increase this risk significantly, but 2 or more heat cycles can result in an exponential rise in risk. Similarly, intact females will be at risk for developing a pyometra, or a bacterial infection within the uterus where it fills with pus. This is most common about 6-8 weeks after a cycle or pregnancy and can be a surgical emergency. Pyometra can be fatal if not addressed in a timely manner.

When should you have your puppy neutered?

In general vets tend to tell owners any time after 6 months in a healthy pup is appropriate. This allows them to get a little bigger and more mature prior to general anesthesia. For females, spaying around this time allows for the surgery to be done prior to the first heat cycle. This makes the surgery slightly less challenging as the uterus and ovaries will be smaller and have smaller blood vessels to address. As pets become larger and go through heat cycles, spaying becomes more involved.

I would be missing some newer studies if I didn’t mention that there has been conversation about increased risks of other cancers if pets are neutered too EARLY. One of those commonly discussed is osteosarcoma (bone cancer) in larger breed dogs such as labradors and shepherds. Similarly, there has been conversation about effects on growth and bone/joint formation in large breed dogs neutered early on in life. While these definitely have merit, the challenge becomes finding a balance in minimising risk overall. Many veterinarians are waiting longer prior to neutering large breed dogs for this reason. In many cases, vets and owners are waiting until closer to 12-18 months of age prior to neutering to facilitate growth.

What’s the difference between a keyhole spay and a regular spay?

A keyhole spay (laparoscopic spay) is a newer way to remove the female reproductive organs and involves using laparoscopic equipment. This means that rather than making a larger incision into the abdomen to gain access, a few small holes are made for the camera/scope and the surgical equipment. This is more costly than a normal spay due to the expertise and equipment required, but also is associated with less tissue trauma and quicker recovery. That being said, conventional spays are still a good standard of care and are completed often in general practice. Laparoscopy can also be used for cryptorchid castrations (when the testicles have not normally descended into the scrotum from the abdomen).

Puppy neutering is a way for pet owners to embrace preventative health care, in addition to helping control the pet population. Chat with a vet about when is best for your pup!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Kittens: Neutering

A new kitten is one of the cutest and most unpredictable additions to a household. It’s an exciting time for families to be bringing in a furry member, but it can be overwhelming too! We wish we had an hour to sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important kitten topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this, having resources for owners to read/keep has become a must. We’ve included top tips and considerations for neutering here for new kitten owners.

TERMS: Neutering refers to the removal of gonads/reproductive organs. Castration is the term used for males and ovariohysterectomy or spay is the term for females.

There has been much discussion about when you/should you have your pet neutered. The consensus among the vet community is neutering your pet is strongly encouraged for several reasons, but this should always be a conversation between you and your vet.

Why should you have your kitten neutered?

For male cats, much interest in castration is to decrease behaviors related to the hormone testosterone. Dogs typically tend to show more of these, but for cats it primarily involves urine marking and fighting with other neighborhood cats. There are also medical concerns including increased risk of cancer. Cats out fighting run an increased risk of contracting infectious diseases that impact the immune system such as FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus) or FeLV (feline leukemia virus).

There is a bit more “urgency” when it comes to spaying female cats. While there is also a behavioral component, the risks more so reflect medical concerns. Intact female cats will have heat cycles consistently during their life and tend to behave more excitably during this time, including increased vocalisation. They will cycle several times each year as long as female hormones are still being created by the ovaries. Medically speaking, vets’ concerns are going to be increased risk of malignant mammary cancer and potential to develop a life threatening bacterial infection of the uterus called a pyometra. For every heat cycle a cat goes through, the risk of developing aggressive mammary cancer later in life increases. One heat cycle does not increase this risk significantly, but 2 or more can result in an exponential rise in risk. Intact females will be at risk for developing a pyometra, or a bacterial infection within the uterus where it fills with pus. This is most common about 6-8 weeks after a cycle or pregnancy and can be a surgical emergency. Pyometra can be fatal if not addressed in a timely manner.

Another issue is that because cats often spend time unsupervised outdoors, neutering in general is an important part of population control. Despite many well intentioned owners this often happens by accident when a cat is outdoors unsupervised. I can promise you that intact male and female cats rarely care about the opposing breed or any family relation – given the opportunity, breeding will occur.

When should you have your kitten neutered?

In general vets tend to tell owners any time after 5-6 months in a healthy kitten is appropriate. This allows them to get a little bigger and more mature prior to general anesthesia. For females, spaying around this time allows for the surgery to be done prior to the first heat cycle. This makes the surgery slightly less challenging as the uterus and ovaries will be smaller and have smaller blood vessels to address. As pets become larger and go through heat cycles, spaying becomes more involved. Oftentimes, cats may be neutered prior to this age (such as those in rescue or adoption centers) because the organization wants them to be adoptable sooner and ready to go home with their forever family.

What’s the difference between a keyhole spay, a flank spay, and a regular spay?

A keyhole spay (laparoscopic spay) is a newer way to remove the female reproductive organs and involves using laparoscopic equipment. This means that rather than making a larger incision into the abdomen to gain access, a few small holes are made for the camera/scope and the surgical equipment. This is more costly than a normal spay due to the expertise and equipment required, but also is associated with less tissue trauma and quicker recovery. That being said, conventional spays/flank spays are still a good standard of care and are completed often in general practice.

Laparoscopy can also be used for cryptorchid castrations (when the testicles have not normally descended into the scrotum from the abdomen).

Neutering your pet is a way for pet owners to embrace preventative health care, in addition to helping control the pet population. Chat with a vet about when is best for your kitten!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

How to make vet trips less stressful:

We know that not all pets love hopping in the car and realising they’re headed for the vet. This especially rings true for cats. That being said, is there anything you can do to make these trips a little less stressful for everyone involved? Yes! Today we’ll cover a few trips to make your vet visits their best.

Take a breath and relax.

If you’re anxious, it’s likely your pet will be anxious too. Animals are excellent at picking up on our emotions and behaviors. If you are calm, on time, and prepared for the visit it can make a huge difference in your pet’s anxiety levels.

Bring your pet HUNGRY!

Our pets love treats, so bring your pet to the vet hungry! Not feeding your pet prior to a vet visit allows for rewarding pets with treats as they are more likely to show interest. This helps create a more positive environment for your pet, and also allows for successful recognition of desired behaviours.

BONUS – many blood tests at the vet are better done fasted (on an empty stomach). Not feeding your pet within 6-12 hours of your visit may also help your vet if they need to do these tests. We know this can’t always be planned for as some problems are booked for an appointment the same day. However, when given the chance, an empty stomach can be helpful for many reasons.

Get your pet used to car trips.

If the only time your pet gets in the car is to go to the vet, no doubt they’ll be less than thrilled to hop in. Get your pet used to riding in the car over time. This will help ease anxiety and also break any direct correlation in their mind between the car and the vet! This is just as true for cats as it is for dogs. Short, frequent trips to places they enjoy, like the park, can help them learn the car is not so scary.

Get your pet used to handling.

If you have the opportunity to get your pet used to handling, the earlier you start the better. It makes vets jobs so much easier to examine your pet if the pet is used to having their bodies touched. This means regularly touching your pets feet, tummy, head, ears, etc. This is also true when it comes to looking in your pets mouth. Get them used to lifting up their lips to look at their teeth.

Their crate should be a safe place.

Similarly to the car, if the only time your pet goes into a crate/carrier is to go to the vet, of course it can become a nightmare getting them into it! We strongly encourage getting your pet used to their crate/carrier as early as possible. If you don’t have a place to leave the carrier out all the time, we suggest leaving it out for a week or so before the appointment in a place where your pet can go in and out as they please. Make the crate a place of comfort! Putting their favourite blankets, toys, or treats in the crate helps make it safe and desirable. It also makes it more likely they will not fight against you to go in the crate when the time comes to go to the vet.

Keep things familiar.

Take things that smell or remind your pet of home with you to the vet. This includes blankets, toys, and treats. It helps retain some form of routine for them, as we know our pets are absolutely creatures of habit.

Wait in the car.

If you know your pet is anxious, ask your vet if you can wait in the car or an area outside rather than in a potentially noisy waiting area. This is extremely important for nervous creatures, particularly cats. The longer they sit in a scary environment PRIOR to their appointment, the harder the actual exam/treatments will be for them. Even if your pet is NOT normally anxious, a busy waiting room with other animals can be stressful and overwhelming for even the best behaved pets.

Don’t be afraid of supplements, and in some cases – prescription medications.

Consider using nutraceuticals/supplements that help with anxiety for your trip to the vet. We love the pheromone spray Feliway for cats. Spraying their crate prior to leaving, as well as a towel or blanket to put OVER their carrier can help. Decreasing visual stimulation for cats can significantly decrease anxiety. Additionally, some very nervous pets can benefit substantially from prescription medications from your vet for anxiety. This may be something they take regularly if anxiety is an issue at home, but there are also safe and successful options that can be given just prior to trips to the vet to take the edge off. Ask your vet if they think this option would be right for your pet!

Reward, reward, reward.

Animals respond and learn best when we reward a positive behaviour with a positive reward. This means that when our pets do a behaviour we desire at the vet, rewarding them is all the more important to encourage these repeat behaviours in the future.

Go to the vet occasionally even when your pet doesn’t have an appointment scheduled.

This can be challenging for cats because they are so easily stressed, but for dogs there is more of a unique opportunity to visit your vets. Even if it’s solely to get a treat and some loving attention from the staff! This helps your dog associate the vet with more positive experiences, not just going for vaccinations or when they are sick.

Your pet relies on both you and your vet team to provide the support and training for their vet trips! Going to the vet is an important and inevitable part of being a pet owner, so let’s make the trips easier for you, your vet team, and most of all our beloved pets.

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Want to get your pet’s parasite prevention sorted today? Click here to get started.

Puppies – Parasite Prevention:

There are fewer things that bring more smiles to the vet clinic than an owner bringing in their new wiggly, happy puppy. It’s an exciting time for families to be adding a new puppy into the mix, but it can also be overwhelming too! We wish we had an hour to sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important puppy topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this, having resources for owners to read, keep and refer back to has become a must for us. We’ve decided to include our top tips and considerations for puppy parasites and prevention for new puppy owners, to help you adapt to owning a new puppy.

Puppies are extremely susceptible to parasitic infections:

While parasite prevention is important in pets of all ages, puppies are particularly susceptible to contracting parasites. They can be infected in the uterus directly from their mother with parasites such as roundworms or via their milk when feeding but they also spend lots of time accidentally getting faecal material from other animals in their mouths. This might be in their pen, at the park, at puppy class, among other places. A large proportion of puppies (even from the best circumstances) have roundworms at birth and should be regularly wormed.

There is not one magical wormer that treats all intestinal parasites:

Check with a vet about which product is right for your puppy. Common wormers will typically cover roundworms and hookworms +/- tapeworms, but won’t cover other intestinal parasites such as coccidia or giardia. Having the vet check a faecal sample in your puppy is also smart to help identify any specific parasites present. This allows for targeted and appropriate worming to be done. Most products intended for regular use such as monthly or quarterly worming come as flavored chewable tablets, making it easier for you to administer and more enjoyable for your puppy to take.

External parasites like fleas don’t discriminate against puppies!

Picking an appropriate flea/tick preventative is also crucial for your pup. Fleas and ticks are not only irritating, but carry a large range of diseases that can affect you and your puppy. Young puppies can become so severely infested with fleas they can become anemic (low red blood cell count). Most flea treatments are safe for use over 8 weeks of age, but be sure to check the product label as there are variations. The majority of these preventatives are made to be given once per month. Again, we have to remember that not all products are created equal. This means that some products come as spot on/topical liquids, some can be oral flavored chewable tablets, and many of them differ in coverage. Checking the product label will tell you which parasites are covered by the drug, and if you ever are unsure, asking your vet will help pick the best product for your pet.

Take home points for puppy parasites and prevention:

Regular parasite prevention is essential for a healthy puppy, and often requires a combination of two products to achieve the desired broad spectrum protection. Be sure you talk to a vet about what your puppy is at risk for to pick the best option for their lifestyle and surrounding risks.

To read more on parasite specifics, check out our blogs on worms, fleas, and ticks.

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

For more information about how we can help you keep your pet safe from parasites, fill out a free consultation here

Kittens – Parasite Prevention:

A new kitten is one of the best yet most unpredictable additions to a household. It’s an exciting time for families to be bringing in a new pet, but it can also be a lot to get used to. We often get many questions about parasite prevention, so we’ve put together this blog post for you to refer to as and when you need. We’ve included our top tips and considerations for parasite prevention for new kitten owners to help lessen the stress of having a new pet.

Kittens are extremely susceptible to parasitic infections:

While parasite prevention is important in pets of all ages, kittens are particularly susceptible to contracting parasites. They can be infected in the uterus directly from their mother with parasites such as roundworms, and they also spend lots of time accidentally getting faecal material from other animals in their mouths. This might be in their pen, at the rescue, or outdoors, among other places.

A large proportion of kittens (even from the best circumstances) have roundworms at birth and should be regularly wormed.

There is not one magical wormer that treats all intestinal parasites:

Check with a vet about which product is right for your kitten. Common wormers will typically cover roundworms and hookworms +/- tapeworms, but won’t cover other intestinal parasites such as coccidia or giardia. Having the vet check a faecal sample in your kitten is also smart to help identify any specific parasites present. This allows targeted and appropriate worming to be done.

Most products intended for regular use such as monthly or quarterly worming come as flavored chewable tablets, making it easier for you to administer and more enjoyable for your kitten to take. Powdered formulations to mix in food and spot on wormers are also available.

External parasites like fleas don’t discriminate against kittens:

Picking an appropriate flea/tick preventative is also on the docket for your kitten. Fleas and ticks are not only irritating, but carry a large range of diseases that can affect you and your kitten. Young kittens can become so severely infested with fleas they can become anemic (low red blood cell count). Most flea treatments are safe for use over 8 weeks of age, but be sure to check the product label as there are variations. The majority of these preventatives are made to be given once per month.

Again, we have to remember that not all products are created equal.

This means that some products come as spot on/topical liquids, some can be oral flavored chewable tablets, and many of them differ in coverage. Checking the product label will tell you which parasites are covered by the drug, and if you ever are unsure, asking your vet will help pick the best product for your pet.

Take home points for parasite prevention:

Regular parasite prevention is essential for a healthy kitten, and often requires a combination of two products to achieve the desired broad spectrum protection.
Be sure you talk to a vet about what your kitten is at risk for to pick the best option for their lifestyle and surrounding risks.
Indoor only cats are at risk for fewer types of parasites than indoor/outdoor cats, but should still be treated.

To read more on parasite specifics, check out our blogs on worms, fleas, and ticks.

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Ready to kickstart your pet’s parasite prevention journey? Get started here

The Lyme Disease Lowdown:

It gets easy to forget that some of the infectious diseases out there that can affect us, can also affect our pets. One that has significant potential for disease in both humans and our furry family members is lyme disease. Many people are aware of the acute and chronic illnesses associated with lyme disease in people, but lyme disease can cause these issues in pets too! Here’s a rundown on lyme disease, and why it’s so important to keep your pets safe from external parasites like ticks.

What is lyme disease?

Lyme disease is the term given to the illness caused by the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi. This bacteria is carried and transferred between infected animals and people by ticks, primarily of the species Ixodes. This bacteria can cause clinical disease in both people and our pets. Lyme disease can occasionally affect cats, but dogs tend to be more commonly affected.

What are the clinical signs of lyme disease?

Dogs may experience a host of signs including joint swelling/pain, lameness (limping), fever, decreased appetite, swollen lymph nodes and lethargy. In severe cases, the kidneys, nervous system, and heart may be affected. Similar signs can develop in humans. Some may be infected after a tick bite, but remain asymptomatic. Humans may also develop classic “bullseye” like red skin lesions, which we do not see in infected pets.

What type of environment do ticks like?

Ticks are a parasite that likes to be opportunistic. Unlike fleas, ticks aren’t major “jumpers”. Rather, ticks like to wait on vegetation and latch on to a warm body walking by. Often ticks like to make a home in tall grass, heavily wooded areas, thick brush and bushes. Ticks prefer a very moderate climate, and are most active in the spring/summer – though ticks have been found year round in the UK.

For up to date information on tick distribution, check out the following resources:

ESCCAP (European Scientific Council for Companion Animal Parasites) Ectoparasite Control:

UK Government Tick Surveillance Scheme:

MSD Animal Health Hub Tick Distribution Map:

Can my pet be tested for lyme disease?

There are antibody tests available for lyme disease from your vet. Typically antibodies will be detectable 4-6 weeks after tick exposure. This is fairly consistent for many tick borne diseases, including Babesiosis, Ehrlichia, and Anaplasma. This in conjunction with classic clinical signs help vets confirm a diagnosis of lyme disease.

What is the treatment for infected pets?

In milder cases, treatment with antibiotics for a minimum of 4 weeks may be enough to treat lyme disease. In more advanced cases, hospitalization with treatments like intravenous fluid support and pain medications/anti-inflammatories are needed. These pets may experience chronic residual clinical signs like joint pain, and in rare cases lyme disease may be fatal.

How can I help prevent lyme disease in my pets?

The good news is that there are steps you can take to help prevent lyme disease from infecting your pet. Prevention, as we say, is the best medicine. There are currently many effective and safe parasite preventatives on the market that protect against ticks. These include both topical (spot on) formulations and oral flavored chewables, typically intended for monthly administration. Preventatives that cover ticks are paired with flea prevention, HOWEVER not all products that prevent fleas ALSO prevent ticks, so it’s essential to check the product label.

Most tick borne diseases take over 24 hours to transmit any diseases via a bite, so checking your pets (and yourself) for ticks after coming in from outdoors is a huge help! This means that any ticks can be promptly removed and decrease the likelihood of disease transmission. Checking once daily particularly in high risk areas/during peak season is a good habit to get into.

Quick note on tick removal:

There are “right” and “wrong” ways to remove a tick! You must grab all the way down where the head/mouth are attached to your pet and grip firmly to ensure removal of the entire tick. Using an object like tweezers or a forcep will provide a good grasp. Failure to remove this may allow more time for disease transmission, and more likely leave an opportunity for significant local irritation/infection.

There is a lyme disease vaccine available for dogs in high risk areas, and whether this is appropriate for your pup should always be discussed with a vet.

Final tips:

Keep your pet on regular monthly parasite prevention.
Know your area! Some places are more likely to see higher tick numbers.
Check your pet for ticks regularly.
Have questions? Check with a vet!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Click here to start your VetBox journey and keep your pets safe from ticks.