Introducing a new furry kitten to the household should be an incredibly exciting time but it can be overwhelming too! There are some basics about what they eat that not everyone knows….So we’ve included top tips and considerations:

There are so many different food options available in pet stores and online. So before you buy, let’s bust a few myths: 

• Expensive does not equal better: A lot of pricy “boutique” or “organic” pet foods are unfortunately not balanced or tested according to veterinary standards, and may actually pose a risk to your pets health down the road. These can be 2-3 times more costly than standard diets from reputable companies, and in some cases more than even prescription diets.
• Vets recommend certain brands because they get rewards from the company: FALSE! Vets recommend a particular set of brands because there really are only a handful that have tested their diets according to veterinary standards and employ full time board certified veterinary nutritionists (among other specialists). More on this later…
• Home cooking is better to avoid preservatives: While home cooking can be done safely if this is your goal, they are tricky. It is essential home cooked diets be done under the direction of a nutrition specialised vet to avoid dietary imbalances. Imbalanced home cooked diets can be very detrimental to cats of all ages, especially growing kittens. Commercially prepared diets are adequately balanced to provide the right nutrients, and any additives have been carefully selected to ensure no ill effects to your pet.

What should I feed my kitten?

First and foremost, a food labelled specifically for kittens or all life stages is essential. These are formulated to meet the unique needs of growing kittens. Kittens need higher levels of protein and fat to keep up with growth. Nutrients such as calcium are also required in different quantities than adult cats for bone maturation. Feeding kittens an adult or senior formulation runs the risk of interfering with healthy growth. 

Three brands we reach for consistently are Purina, Hills Science Diet, and Royal Canin. These companies consistently prove reliable and have become major players in the veterinary field. All three companies provide both over the counter as well as prescription diets that have been heavily studied and proven to provide the right nutrients in the right quantities (if you are feeding the correct amount of the correct life stage). Iams, Eukanuba, and Blue Buffalo also have a few diets that have been appropriately tested and researched as well, but it is important to read the labels on any diet to ensure this is the case. For more information on understanding pet food labels and regulations, check out www.pmfa.org.uk (Pet Food Manufacturers Association). 

Dry vs. canned…is one better than the other?

Dry and canned are both perfectly fine options for kittens as long as you ensure you are feeding the right amount of total calories recommended daily and using a kitten formulation. Some kittens will prefer one over the other, and may tell you quite quickly if that is the case. Both are safe and healthy. Using dry vs. canned vs. a combination of the two are all appropriate.  Kittens are typically ready for dry food by around 6-8 weeks of age and have been weaned completely from their mother. Many veterinarians encourage trying to incorporate at least some quantity of canned food into a kitten’s diet. This is to provide extra moisture as cats are very inefficient drinkers, to help promote kidney and bladder health, manage weight, and also to help with feeding medications down the road if needed.

How much should I feed my kitten? 

Typically, it’s best to look at the food label for directions on the quantity to feed. These tend to overestimate a little bit for adult cats, but for fast growing kittens I think that the feeding guide charts on the sides of the bag or can are a good place to start. 

Feeding multiple smaller meals per day is easier for cats to digest, as their stomachs are extremely small even into adult food. This may mean 3-4 meals per day for kittens and young cats. I also recommend meal feeding (setting out a specified amount at specified times) typically over “free feeding” (having larger quantities of food out all the time). This allows owners to keep a better idea of if their kitten/cat is eating a normal quantity, pick up on problems sooner, and also helps keep cats at a healthier weight. Unfortunately most cats are not great at regulating their own calorie intake, though there are a few out there!

TIP: For more information on deciding if your kitten is too thin or overweight, check out our blog on weight management!

When should I feed my kitten?

Having a fairly stable schedule in terms of feeding times/location is going to make things easiest. Starting with a morning meal, 1-2 mid day meals, and an evening meal is often the easiest schedule to stick with. 

TIP: I recommend avoiding play time immediately before or after a meal, to help prevent GI upset. 

Where should I feed my kitten? 

A calm place away from distractions and other pets is best. Having a designated “spot” is nice to encourage routine. This allows your kitten to focus their very short attention span on eating, not playing or trying to swipe their housemates’ food. 

TIP: If your kitten is a quick eater, activity feeders are a GREAT way to slow them down and prevent choking or vomiting. Flat bowls can also slow the speed at which kittens eat. There are many of these commercially available at pet stores and with online retailers such as Amazon. 

Can I feed my kitten human food?

It is important for pet owners to understand there are many foods that are perfectly safe for humans but are extremely toxic to pets. Some things that are very toxic to cats include garlic, onions, caffeine, chocolate, grapes, raisins, macadamia nuts, artificial sweeteners (xylitol), and alcohol. I recommend asking your vet before giving any human food to your creatures! As much as we are tempted to give it, they don’t actually need it. 

Checking with your vet is always the best way to overcome the overwhelming amount of information on pet foods out there. They can help you decide what’s best for your kitten based on their medical needs and what works for you!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

There are fewer things that bring more smiles to the vet clinic than an owner bringing in their new wiggly happy puppy. It’s an exciting time for families to be adding a furry member, but it can also be overwhelming too! Having resources for owners to read/keep has become a must. So we’ve included our top tips on puppy diets: 

There are so many different food options available in pet stores and online. So before you buy, let’s bust a few myths: 

• Expensive does not equal better: A lot of pricy “boutique” or “organic” pet foods are unfortunately not balanced or tested according to veterinary standards, and may actually pose a risk to your pets health down the road. These are often 2-3 times more costly than standard diets from reputable companies, and in some cases more than even prescription diets.
• Vets recommend certain brands because they get rewards from the company: FALSE! Vets recommend a particular set of brands because there really are only a handful that have tested their diets according to veterinary standards and employ full time board certified veterinary nutritionists (among other specialists). More on this later…
• Home cooking is better to avoid preservatives: While home cooking can be done safely if this is your goal, they are tricky. It is essential home cooked diets be done under the direction of a nutrition specialised vet to avoid dietary imbalances. Imbalanced home cooked diets can be very detrimental to dogs of all ages, especially growing puppies. Commercially prepared diets are much more likely to be adequately balanced to provide the right nutrients, and any additives have been carefully selected to ensure no ill effects to your pet.

What should I feed my puppy?
First and foremost, a food labelled specifically for PUPPIES or ALL LIFE STAGES is essential. These are formulated to meet the unique needs of growing pups. Puppies need higher levels of protein and fat to keep up with growth. Nutrients such as calcium are also required in different quantities than adult dogs for bone maturation. Feeding puppies an adult or senior formulation runs the risk of interfering with healthy growth. 

Three brands I reach for consistently are Purina, Hills Science Diet, and Royal Canin. These companies consistently prove reliable and have become major players in the veterinary field. All three companies provide both over the counter as well as prescription diets that have been heavily studied and proven to provide the right nutrients (if you are feeding the correct amount of the correct life stage). Iams, Eukanuba, and Blue Buffalo also have a few diets that have been appropriately tested and researched as well, but it is important to read the labels on any diet to ensure this is the case. 

Dry vs. canned…is one better than the other?

Dry and canned are both perfectly fine options for puppies as long as you are making sure you are feeding the right amount of total calories recommended daily and using a puppy formulation. Some puppies will prefer one over the other, and may tell you quite quickly if that is the case. Both are safe and healthy, and using dry vs. canned vs. a combination of the two are all perfectly appropriate. Puppies are typically ready for dry food by around 6-8 weeks of age and have been weaned completely from their mother.

How much should I feed my puppy? 

Typically, you should look at the food label for directions on the quantity to feed. These tend to overestimate a little bit for adult dogs, but for fast growing puppies I think that the feeding guide charts on the sides of the bag or can are a good place to start. 

We recommend starting young puppies at 3-4 meals per day (i.e. dividing their total daily caloric intake into 3-4 feedings). As they approach 3-4 months of age, 3 meals is a good transition point. Once a puppy is 6-8 months I like to phase out that “puppy lunch” and start getting them used to two meals per day. Remember you aren’t decreasing the quantity fed, just the frequency. Meal feeding is encouraged to help keep track of how much you are setting out and how much they are eating (as opposed to free feeding where there is food out all the time). 

TIP: For more information on deciding if your puppy is too thin or overweight, check out our blog on weight management!

When should I feed my puppy?

Puppies LOVE a solid routine. Having a fairly stable schedule in terms of feeding times/location is going to make things easiest. This also helps with potty training, as I like to encourage owners to associate meal times with going outside to potty before and/or after the meal. Starting with a morning meal, 1-2 mid day meals, and an evening meal is often the easiest schedule to stick with. 

TIP: I recommend avoiding exercise immediately before or after a meal, to help prevent GI upset. Exercise close to meal time has also been discussed as a potential contributor to bloating or GDV (gastric dilatation and volvulus), though this is still under research and debate. 

Where should I feed my puppy? 
A calm place away from distractions and other pets is best. Having a designated “spot” is nice to again encourage routine. This allows your puppy to focus their very short attention span on eating, not playing, barking, or trying to swipe their housemates’ food. 

TIP: If your puppy is a quick eater, activity feeders are a GREAT way to slow them down and prevent choking/bloating. There are many of these commercially available at pet stores and with online retailers such as Amazon. 

Can I feed my puppy human food?

It is important for pet owners to understand there are many foods that are perfectly safe for humans but are extremely toxic to pets. Supplementing your puppies diet with a safe protein like plain boiled chicken is absolutely ok, however again we need to make sure the majority of their diet is primarily made up of commercially formulated food to avoid nutritional imbalances. Some things that are very toxic to dogs include garlic, onions, caffeine, chocolate, grapes, raisins, macadamia nuts, artificial sweeteners (xylitol), and alcohol. I recommend asking your vet before giving any human food to your creatures! As much as we are tempted to give it, they don’t actually need it. 

Checking with your vet is always the best way to overcome the overwhelming amount of information on pet foods out there. They can help you decide what’s best for your pup based on their medical needs and what works for you!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Busting Myths about Gut Upset in Dogs & Cats

An inevitable part of being a pet owner is dealing with some, let’s face it, pretty grim moments. These include when your pet vomits and/or has diarrhoea. GI upset is one of the most common reasons dogs and cats are seen by a vet. While an angry gut may seem like a simple diagnosis, there can be a lot more involved Today we’re going to bust a few myths that have to do with vomiting and diarrhoea in our pets. 

MYTH 1: It’s normal for cats to vomit regularly. 

Over the years, cats have earned the reputation of being regular pukers. Many cat owners think their cat vomits just because it’s a cat. While it is true that cats can vomit occasionally without there being a major underlying cause, it truly isn’t normal for cats to vomit regularly. There is no hard and fast rule about how many times is too many, but if your cat vomits at least once per month, there is a possibility of an issue that needs to be addressed. This may be as simple as changing the way your cat is fed, but can also be a medical problem, like intestinal tract disease. Your vet can help you figure out if your cat’s vomiting is a concern.

MYTH 2: My pet’s not vomiting so they can’t be nauseous.

Nausea can be challenging to treat in pets because they can’t tell us they feel unwell. That being said, we often hear pet owners ask why their pet needs anti-nausea medication if their pet isn’t vomiting very much. Particularly in cats, underlying nausea is a common problem that can mask itself as decreased appetite. Our pets do not have to be vomiting to be battling nausea. If your vet recommends anti-vomiting medication when your pet is unwell, it may also be to help combat nausea, so heed their advice. 

MYTH 3: Vomiting and diarrhoea aren’t a big deal. 

A one off episode of soft stool or vomiting may not be cause for concern. Pets can absolutely have an occasional bout of GI upset. They might have eaten something they shouldn’t have, they might have chewed on some grass in the back garden, or even might have been stressed after a new person visited the house. Once vomiting and diarrhoea becomes a pattern, this should put up a red flag for owners. Multiple episodes of vomiting/diarrhoea in a short period of time may indicate an issue that needs to be addressed. Chronic vomiting/diarrhoea regularly over several weeks to months is also a concern. Taking your pet to the vet sooner rather than later can help avoid dehydration, lethargy, and other side effects of fluid loss. They can also help determine if your pet simply needs supportive care vs. more diagnostic testing to address the underlying problem. 

MYTH 4: Pets can’t have parasites if they don’t have diarrhoea. 

It’s true that diarrhoea is a common clinical sign of pets infected with intestinal parasites. But did you know that it’s also common for vets to diagnose parasites in pets with normal stool? Particularly in multi-pet households, it’s not uncommon for several pets to be infected and one has diarrhoea but the other does not. This makes regular worming specific to your pets lifestyle and appropriate faecal testing with your vet all the more important. 

MYTH 5: Vomiting and diarrhoea are always due to problems with the GI tract itself. 

While vomiting and diarrhoea arise from the GI tract and often do reflect irritation with that body system, it doesn’t always mean the underlying problem was just the gut. Here’s a few diseases in pets that are not primary gastrointestinal in origin (like parasites, food sensitivities/allergies, inflammatory bowel disease, etc.) but commonly cause vomiting and/or diarrhoea: 

• Hyperthyroidism (cats)
• Chronic kidney disease
• Diabetes 
• Pancreatitis 
• Hepatitis/liver disease
• Kidney infections/pyelonephritis
• Hypoadrenocorticism/Addison’s disease
• Toxicities/poisons

Let’s recap. This list doesn’t mean that your pet must have a serious problem if they vomit. If you are like many of us, it’s easy to assume something scary is going on. It’s just important for pet owners to be aware that there are many causes of GI upset, and that diseases other than intestinal ones can also cause vomiting and diarrhoea. Just as importantly, vomiting and diarrhoea can cause dehydration and nausea quickly so it’s important to have your pet seen by your vet if they have repeat episodes. 

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

As we begin to approach the official start of winter, the mornings are darker, the days are shorter and the temperature drops. We get ourselves bundled up in blankets when inside, and wrapped up in coats, scarfs and hats when outside, but sometimes we forget our pets might be struggling with the change of season too. It’s easily done as we can assume cats and dogs don’t feel the cold because they have their own built-in fur coats! But unfortunately for our fur-babies, winter can take a toll on them too. Not to worry, we’ve included some top-tips to help you ensure your pets are kept warm this winter! 

Dogs:

Dogs actually have a higher body temperature than humans at around 38-39.2°C, which can work in their favour during winter. However, most dogs begin to feel uncomfortable when the temperature drops to 7°C and below. That said, different breeds of dogs react differently to certain types of climate, for example dogs with finer and shorter fur will feel the cold more than others. 

How to tell if your dog is cold:

• Shivering or trembling 
• Whining 
• Curling up in a ball 
• Seeming weak or lethargic 

Keeping your dog warm:

• Ensure your dog has a warm bed where they can rest. 

Just like us, dogs need their own bed which they’d think of as a safe haven, getting a specific dog bed and adding a thick blanket, will provide your dog with the perfect cosy place to sleep

• Reduce visits to the dog groomers. 

Getting your pup a haircut every 10-12 weeks is the usual recommendation. However, during colder months, we advise you to let your dog’s fur grow out for that extra layer of warmth and to provide them with their own winter coat! 

• Buy your dog a jacket. 

For dogs who struggle more with the cold or have finer fur, consider buying a good jacket that your dog can wear inside. This will also save you from having to put the heating on for extended periods of time.

• Heated pads.  

If you don’t have carpeted floors in your home, consider investing in a heated pad for your dog. Tiled floor surfaces can make your pets colder faster, so a heated pad would help avoid this. 

• On colder days try to exercise your dogs inside. 

There are some extremely cold days during winter which humans struggle to keep warm in, these are the days you should consider keeping your pups inside. Getting your dog some toys and playing a game of indoor fetch should help keep them active even when inside. 

• Buy your dog a fleece-lined jacket. 

These can be worn inside or outside, depending on the temperature. A thermal jacket is recommended for when you’re taking your dog on a walk to ensure they’re warm enough. 

• Check your dog’s paws. 

After your dog comes in from being outside, be sure to check their paws for any abrasions from things such as grit and salt, and if it was snowy or icy out – make sure to wipe their paws properly. 

Cats:

Most cats enjoy going outside and venturing out on their own, but it’s important as owners we do what they can to provide them a warm sanctuary, for when they come back inside during colder months. Similar to dogs, cats have a slightly higher body temperature than humans, usually sitting around 38.3-39.2°C, and anything under 7°C is considered to be too cold for cats. Here are some tips for keeping your cat safe and warm this winter.

How to tell if your cat is cold: 

• Shivering or trembling 
• Seeking warmer places – sleeping directly on or next to the radiator 
• Tips of their ears, nose or tail feeling cold to the touch 
• Puffed up fur 
• Curling up into a ball 

Keeping your cat warm and safe

• Provide a warm bed. 

This winter consider getting your cat a covered igloo bed or a hammock bed that attaches to a radiator, or even just a cat bed with blankets placed next to the radiator. These are perfect spots for your cat to have a warm and cosy rest. 

• Put out a litter tray. 

Even if your cat usually goes to the toilet outside, during winter you should provide an accessible indoor litter tray just in case they don’t feel comfortable going outside in the cold. 

• Get your cats lots of toys they can play with inside. 

You’ll find that most cats will prefer to spend more time inside during winter, but they’ll still need a form of exercise that they’re missing from being outside. This is where you can help by providing them with a range of toys to ensure they stay active and healthy. 

• Be careful of antifreeze.

If cats ingest even 5ml of antifreeze it can be fatal, so please ensure any products you own are stored securely and if any spills occur they are cleaned up right away. If your cat accidentally ingests or is exposed to antifreeze you should contact your vet immediately. Signs this has occurred include vomiting, seizures, lethargy, faster heart rate, shallow breathing, increase in urination or drinking. 

• Get your cat a reflective collar. 

Winter is the time of year with the darkest mornings and evenings so to ensure your cat is visible to cars and people, make sure they’re wearing a reflective collar when going outside. 

• Provide an outside shelter. 

Even when cold, some cats will still want to stay outside for hours, so make a safe shelter your cat can go to for some warmth when outside. This could be a small animal-friendly hut or even a cardboard box with a blanket inside. 

• Check your car engine. 

As temperatures drop, some cats crawl under car bonnets or wheel arches for a warm and dry sleeping spot. Make sure to tap your bonnet and check your wheels before starting your car and driving off.  

• Check your cat’s paws. 

Just like dogs, when your cat comes in from being outside, be sure to check their paws for any abrasions from things such as grit and salt, and if it was snowy or icy out – make sure to wipe their paws properly. 

With prices going up this winter, we want to ensure when it comes to caring for your pets you don’t have to worry about being overcharged. That’s why VetBox provides an affordable and trustworthy monthly subscription to keep your pets safe during winter and beyond. 

There are fewer things that bring more smiles to the vet clinic than an owner bringing in their new wiggly happy puppy. It’s an exciting time for families to be adding a furry member, but it can also be overwhelming too! We wish I had an hour to sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important puppy topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this having resources for owners to read/keep has become a must. We’ve included top tips and considerations for socialization/behavior here for new puppy owners!

• Having a well adjusted puppy takes time and training.
  • Puppies are sweet and curious creatures, but it’s important to remember that dogs don’t magically grow up to be well behaved and easy going. There are many new experiences that puppies will go through that shape the type of dog they eventually become. While it is easy to assume all puppies are mellow and welcoming, some puppies are timid and fearful. Did you know that behavioral problems are one of the number one reasons why dogs are relinquished to shelters or requested to be put to sleep? If you have a puppy at home, you have a wonderful opportunity to help them jump through the hoops towards becoming a well adjusted dog.

• Puppies experience their primary “learning” and “socialisation” period up to about 12-16 weeks of age. 
  • This means that the optimal window for teaching them how to acclimatize to new situations is before they hit this age. This often surprises owners, but I like to turn this into a plus. This gives us the chance to help puppies become great doggos.

• Vaccinations vs. Socialization: When is it safe to take my puppy out? 

The answer is, it depends. This question arises because we know the primary socialisation period is prior to 12-16 weeks of age, but puppies have not completed their initial vaccine series to receive disease protection until that age or later. Our answer is to pick safe socialization opportunities, as we should ideally not wait to introduce new experiences. 

What are safe experiences? Just because your puppy is still receiving starting boosters, doesn’t mean you can’t carry them places with you. Carrying them on a short walk or taking them in the car for small trips is a great place to start. They feel safe because they are close to you but can see and smell new things. Another option is playing with dogs of different ages/sizes in a garden that is isolated ie. your back garden. Allowing your puppy to have supervised time with other dogs that are vaccinated, on parasite prevention, and are good with other dogs is a great chance for socialisation. Make sure to watch your puppy’s response to other dogs and stop the interaction if they are becoming overwhelmed/scared. We want to foster positive associations with new friends.

• Short and sweet is key. 
  • Keeping new experiences short and positive allows for puppies to avoid becoming overwhelmed and stressed. 10-15 minutes can often be enough at one time, though repetition over time is also important. Positive reinforcement for positive behaviors/responses are much easier for puppies to remember and associate with future behaviors. For example, a positive experience with treats and praise is much more likely to lead to repeat behaviors in the future. 

• Remember that puppies will often be nervous in new situations. 
  • We need to keep in mind that pretty much everything is new to puppies that are weeks to months old, and these things may be scary. Trying to avoid triggers can be helpful to creating a positive experience. For example, being on the floor with your puppy and a new person instead of having them lean over or get into the puppy’s face is a less confrontational way to introduce them. Don’t forget treats! Sounds can also be scary, so exposure to things like cars, vacuums, lawn mowers, washing machines, hair dryers, etc. are useful.

• Vary the exposure. 
  • The more types of dogs and people your puppy gets exposed to, the easier it will be for them to associate a positive experience with new situations. This particularly comes into play with children. Children are often unpredictable in terms of sounds, smells, and behaviors which can be challenging for puppies to comprehend. Getting puppies used to children is a good way to curb a common dog fear later on in life. It is also essential to teach your children appropriate behavior around dogs! Puppies and children should never be left unsupervised. 

• Puppy socialization classes can be a real plus.
  • Classes at reputable locations such as vet clinics are a great opportunity for puppies to learn what behaviors towards other dogs are welcome vs. discouraged. Be sure to check what vaccinations and faecal tests are required prior to classes, as safe classes should require vaccinations and a negative faecal to prevent the spread of disease.

• Don’t forget to make the vet less scary too!
  • Taking your pet to the vet can be stressful for everyone involved, but it doesn’t have to be. This one is tough given our current COVID pandemic, however, trips to the vet’s office to do a quick “say hi and get a treat” without having any treatments done can be extremely helpful to teach puppies that the vet doesn’t have to be a scary place. 

• Consider training tools to help make a ROUTINE.
  • I often encourage owners to “crate train” their puppy. This doesn’t necessarily have to be a crate/kennel, it can even be a small pen if it’s strong enough to keep them contained. There are a few reasons I am such a fan of crate training:
    • It provides a safe place for your puppy to be unsupervised.
    • It helps create a routine, especially when it comes to potty training. 
    • It creates a trained separation for safe sleeping habits (that being said all of my dogs end up sleeping on our bed later on, who am I kidding). 
  • Puppies are all about routine. The best training protocols rely on creating one that works for you and your puppy then sticking to it. Consistency helps reinforce concepts you are trying to teach, and also helps them retain these faster. This takes some of the uncertainty out of learning for puppies and can relieve stress in new situations. 

KEY POINTS: 

Positive rewards for positive behavior/interactions, routine, and consistency win the game here. Exposing your pet to a variety of safe new environments, people, and animals while they are growing is essential to helping them grow into a well adjusted adult dog. 

Dr. Kirsten

Pets with accurate information linked to their microchips are 54% more likely to be reunited with their owners. Microchipped pets should have their owner’s information stored in a database. However, around 1 in 3 pet owners in the UK don’t know which database their pet is registered with, let alone have accurate information stored. We sat down with Petdatabase.com to understand a bit more about microchips and how they can help you keep your information up to date, for free. 

How do microchips work?

A microchip is a small chip, about the size of a grain of rice, that is placed under your pet’s skin as a means of identification if your pet is ever lost. This chip can be scanned to show the chip number. This number can then be looked up on any DEFRA (Department of Environmental, Food, Rural Affairs) compliant database to find the saved owner details. For this reason, a microchip is only as effective as the data that is stored against that chip number. That’s why keeping the information on your pet’s microchip is so important. 

What happens if my pet is lost?

Did your four-legged friend wander off after catching the scent of a fox in the woods? If it happens, they will most likely end up in the care of a vet, warden, or rescue. Here they can scan your pet’s microchip to find out who the owner is. Now, to make reaching you as easy as possible, make sure to keep your information up to date, for example when you move house. Sadly, 64% of stray dogs in rescues have out-of-date chip information. By keeping your dog’s microchip details up to date, you can help change this stat. 

Do you know which database your pet is registered with?

Bringing a new dog home is super exciting – it’s easy to get wrapped up in all the new toys and treats in those first few weeks. It’s important to remember to also get your dog registered with a local vet, book them in for their vaccinations, and to update their microchip details. During this transition period, it’s really important, and a legal requirement, that you update the microchip information to your own details, and continue to do so should you move home. Unfortunately, in many cases of stray pets, the microchip shows the pet as still registered with the breeder or the first owner and sometimes has no information at all making it harder to reunite lost pets with their loved ones.

It is also really important that you ensure that your microchip is registered with a DEFRA-approved database. This not only makes sure that your personal information is securely stored but also ensures that should your pet ever go missing a vet, warden or rescue will be able to get in contact with you. If you’re unsure of where your information is stored, reach out to your vet.

Keeping your microchip details up to date

You’re fully in control of your microchip information. There are now 18 DEFRA-approved microchip databases and you can choose where your information is stored. Our friends at PetDatabase.com offer free updates for life, plus they provide a really simple and 100% secure switching service.  

What you can enjoy with PetDatabase.com:

• Free updates, for life
• Quick, safe and secure
• Free lost pet service
• ‘Safety Ping’ alerts whenever your chip is scanned
• No boring admin, they manage the transfer for you